from duvac terminal to negative alternator terminal but I also read 12.8v between duvac and chassis ground. I read 0 v with ign off and -.15 v with ign on. The DUVAC terminal requires 12V (coach battery voltage) to function, thisįunctions as the “battery sense.” Depending on the application this may be 12 V with key on as some vehicles have a relay with the ignition system. off, I read -0.311 V and with ign on, I read -12 V between ign terminal and negative alternator terminal and 12.2 volts between ing terminal and chassis ground. Should be 12V to the terminal with the key on (with or without the engine There should be no voltage to the ignition terminal with the key off. Present check the connections to the battery isolator and the functionality There should be no voltage between the alternator + and – terminalsĮither with the key on or off unless the engine is running. OK I checked the voltages at the alternator terminals: I am going back out to the coach now to recheck the voltage readings at the alternator as outlined in the tips. It also indicated that the terminal 1 (center?) should be connected to the alternator but my center terminal is connected to chassis ground. The trouble shooting info you referred me to refers to the Battery Isolator testing with ohm meter says I should be seeing zero or near zero ohms to both battery terminals with neg lead on center post but I am seeing the chassis post (top) as open. With neg test lead on center post and pos lead to lower post I get open, and with pos lead to top post also open. I had just confirmed that the white ground wire going to the center terminal is connected to chassis ground and took resistance readings between the terminals of the green relay with the wires disconnected as instructed yesterday by Rich Today I got different readings from those given to Rich as follows: Pos test lead to center terminal and neg lead to lower terminal I get 0.59 m ohms, and with neg lead to top terminal I get "open". Rich is really a prince of a guy!! Yes, this does help me to get all of this into focus. Rich emailed me earlier to tell you that he has gone to doctor today and asked me to try to help with your problem while he is away. The lockout goes directly to a delay relay that actuates the large relay by means of signaling the ground ( - ) side of that relay. If you notice on your schematic someone has penciled in that this same relay is also your auxiliary battery combiner (the switch inside) which actually overrides the lockout system. The closing of this relay is what causes both chassis and house batteries to combine to maintain charge when the alternator is producing current. In turn, the large relay, the one with two large wires and two small wires is not receiving ground (small wire on left is normally positive) while a relay depends on both ground (small wire on right) to be activated at the same time otherwise it will not close. Both of these are connected to the LE415 through a ground bus bar, the ground bus bar is activated by the negative terminal on the maintainer, it appears that the ground bus bar is isolated from chassis ground unless it sees ground from the maintainer. If you notice in the original picture there are three small boxes side by side, the one in the middle is marked isolator lockout, the one to the right is not marked, but your schematic signifies that it is a slide lockout. It's only a maintainer designed to keep the battery charged that is not receiving a charge from either the alternator or inverter, if charge is not happening on either then it will not try to charge.
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